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The Stitch - ‘Schiapar-alien!’


Marcus Falcão / THE GATEPOST

By Bella Omar

Asst. Arts & Features Editor


A circuit board embellished cocktail dress - paired with a matching child, of course - braided horsehair silk studded sets, ample buckles, bandana motifs, and floor-length fringe were all featured in Schiaparelli creative director, Daniel Roseberry’s western, sci-fi, surrealist sensation - “Schiapar-alien!”


Since taking over the house in April 2019 as the first American to lead a French couture brand, Roseberry has consistently delivered noteworthy and creative collections that honor Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy.


On Jan. 22, Roseberry transformed the Petit Palais in Paris into a magical amalgamation of his Texan upbringing and sci-fi movie aesthetics all while pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship in haute couture.


Highly structured ensembles with even higher necklines that surpassed the models’ faces opened the show, creating shapes that embodied that alien-like look and signature Schiaparelli opulence. 

Pieces took on the palette of dark velvets, satins, and patent leather exclusively in neutrals, gold, and lacy white.


Continuing to play into the brand’s character, Roseberry did not shy away from the iconic keyhole shape - that was most noticeable as a cutout that amassed internet attention by not only covering the gown with feathers, but the model’s entire face as well.


Yet the most buzz worthy item was not an article of clothing but an accessory - the Swarovski crystal encrusted, cyber child. The child, and the matching dress, featured retro mother boards, calculators, and cellphones attached.


Gold hardware was in abundance and made up everything - western-style belt buckles, boot tips, and even small keyhole shapes. Several looks featured pants or jackets completely adorned in these oversized belt buckles, adding another layer of drama to these already out-of-this-world pieces. 


Phallic knobs of braided horsehair silk fully decorated cropped jackets and trousers while adding an incredible amount of interest to the looks.


As another homage to the human body, gold shoes molded into the shape of feet were styled with floor-length gowns.


Towering cages of satin or lace that enclosed models’ faces were reminiscent of the spaceships in nostalgic sci-fi movies that Roseberry definitely kept in mind while designing this collection.


Taking inspiration from historic couturiers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, and as an obvious nod to the awards season, high and low volume evening gowns billowed down the runway - their satin makeup catching the light.


Upper echelon pieces like these were balanced by slouchy slacks and cargo pants sported in a handful of looks - in addition to the charming detail of a pencil from the Schiaparelli studio being threaded through the lapel of a white shirt.


Long, luxurious fringe featured on jackets and even skirts was the piece de resistance in turning models into glamorous cowboys that just so happened to find themselves in Paris.


This collection truly felt like a labor of love, authentically representing Daniel Roseberry’s many eccentric inspirations and the brand’s proclivity for the surreal - making it a beacon of the spring 2024 couture season.

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